Chapter 1. Rethinking fashion / Regina Lee Blaszczyk -- PART I. Organizing the fashion trades -- Chapter 2. Spreading the word : the development of the Russian fashion press / Christine Ruane -- Chapter 3. Accessorizing, Italian style : creating a market for Milan's fashion merchandise / Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese -- Chapter 4. In the shadow of Paris? French haute couture and Belgian fashion between the wars / Veronique Pouillard -- Chapter 5. Licensing practices at Maison Christian Dior / Tomoko Okawa -- PART II. Inventing fashions, promoting styles -- Chapter 6. The wiener werkstatte and the reform impulse / Heather Hess -- Chapter 7. American fashions for American women : The rise and fall of fashion nationalism / Marlis Schweitzer -- Chapter 8. Coiffing vanity : advertising celluloid toilet sets in 1920s America / Ariel Beaujot -- PART III. Shaping bodies, building brands -- Chapter 9. California casual : lifestyle marketing and men's leisurewear, 1930-1960 / William Scott -- Chapter 10. Marlboro men : outside masculinities and commercial modeling in postwar America / Elspeth Brown -- Chapter 11. The body and the brand : how Lycra shaped America / Kaori O'Connor -- PART IV. Customer reactions, consumer adaptations -- Chapter 12. French hairstyles and the elusive consumer / Steve Zdatny -- Chapter 13. Ripping up the uniform approach: Hungarian women piece together a new communist fashion / Katalin Medvedev -- Chapter 14. Why the old-fashioned is in fashion in American houses / Susan Matt.